Thank you SO much for having a legible, well-pointed sign on every single corner of every single street. Without this simple but oft-forgotten manifestation of the German obsession with ordnung, I would have been lost in sub-freezing temperatures at least twenty times by now.
With that said, I would love, simply LOVE, to know just how you managed to get by all these years — being the uber-organized, ultra-bureaucratic, and and generally OCD culture that you are — without the use of apartment numbers??? It truly baffles me! After tromping through the icy streets until all toes and fingers are burning, the last thing I need is to arrive at someone’s door, get let in by the buzzer, then realize that I have no idea whether they live in the front house or the back house, on the first floor or the fifth floor, whatever. This numberless chaos has left me shuffling on the ground floor too many times.
Apartment numbers aside, Berlin and I are pretty tight. Last weekend was, to say the least, the bomg. Will and I had the tremendous pleasure of helping our housemate to DJ the middle school disco at the school where he works. I guess with a middle school disco, things could really go either way, but in this case the way was Awesometown. The kids were totally adorable (picture this: 12-year-old bartenders delivering virgin mojitos and pina coladas to the DJ booth), and they were even fairly responsive to the older tunes we packed in with the much-requested Lady Gaga, Taylor Swift, and Black Eyed Peas. I was especially pleased with their enthusiastic response to one of my own middle school faves, “I believe I Can Fly.” (And they went crazy for OMD’s “Enola Gay” — whodda thunk?)
World's greatest virgin cocktail bar, with world's most adorable bartenders
After the dance we went on to Weekend (club in Alexanderplatz) for a bit. The occasion was Sammy Dee’s birthday, featuring Dan Bell, Bruno Pronsato live, and of course Sammy himself. We basically just stopped in for a bit to hang out with Bruno and his adorable lady, both of whom have been exceedingly kind to us since our move to Berlin. We boogied pretty hard to Dan Bell while we waited for them; the man is a truly exceptional DJ. Even so early in the night, he was able to get so funky without getting too big to show-up the performers coming on after him. Serious subtlety, I’m so glad he lives in Berlin and plays here so often. (We later saw him in the crowd at Pbar.)
Unfortunately for us, Levon Vincent was due to go on at Panorama Bar at 2am, and we didn’t want to miss him, so we left just as Bruno was about to start his set. (Sad of course, but not too big a deal since we’ve seen him three times in the last year and are going to see him often in the coming year.) When we arrived at Berghain the line was about halfway down the gates, and it was fucking freezing so we just sort of stood there quietly and waited to get in. The beats from Panorama were shaking the whole building– the rattling was almost terrifying. They still had the blinds open up in the Panorama Bar, so you could see the party inside from the line below. Pure torture.
There was a huge turnout — it was the reopening of Panorama after a refurbishment (two thumbs up), and this Underground Quality mini-tour seems to have been quite a hot item — so the uber-intimidating doormen were turning away tons of people. My heart was obviously beating pretty fast by the time we got to the front of the freezing-cold line. The five guys in front of us were dismissed (“We make a choice, and tonight’s not your night”), but for whatever reason Will and I were let in after a stare-down that seemed to last for a day.
Inside, it was sweaty red chaos. So many people packed in (around 3am) that you could barely dance… instead you had to just sort of stand there moving back and forth in whatever few inches you had for whatever few seconds. We ran into Will’s crew from the RA offices almost immediately, but it’s pretty hard to socialize when it’s so … loud. Levon was good, but somehow I feel his sound would be far better suited to Berghain. People were getting really into him nonetheless (myself included). Unfortunately we found ourselves catching up with friends during DJ Qu’s set, which is a shame because I was really excited to see him. Jus Ed played pretty much as expected, at least up until the end. As we all know, the guy has incredible track selection, but runs the show a bit like a radio show. In any case, he finally started to “build” — tensions, ascenscion — towards the end of his set, when he started to drop some really deep and dubby house, the Anton Zap-ish stuff I had been waiting for all night.
The whole night really “happened” when Tamo Sumo took over the decks sometime between 8 or 9am. For the record, this chick is INCREDIBLE. Jumping off of Ed’s leap-into-deep, she immediately took the crowd under her spell with some very subtle and serious grooves. And then she did what a truly amazing DJ is supposed to do: took us on a journey. And we followed her every step of the way. Will and I had originally planned on taking off before the end of Ed’s set — with the disco and everything we were both pretty pooped. Thank god we decided to stay. As the dawn began to break sheepishly through the still-closed blinds, she slowly started to build the vibe, until suddenly we found ourselves amidst a raucous dance party, blinds open, sunlight streaming in at full blast (the most sun Berlin had seen in WEEKS), and all these crazy pumping old school jams flying in one after the other bambambam. It was a whirlwind of awesome.
(Ed’s video of Tama Sumo playing the instrumental dub mix of the new Steffi track in New York in her custom UQ Label Night shirt. LOVE IT.)
[[If haven’t already, please do yourself a favor and download her mix for LWE before it gets archived .]]
By now all of the norms had long since gone, and only the serious party crowd was left, and they were here to boogie. This is the kind of stuff you really live for in Berlin, these tiny magic mornings that seem so special through and through. It still blows my mind how you can have an incredibly magical and dare-I-say spiritual time a club when all the stars align. I know some people have the impression that this scene is all about partying, raving, whatever… but it’s so much bigger than that, so much more sincere. This whole genre of music is so much more sincere, so much more touching than any other artform I’ve ever interacted with. And that’s why I love it. That’s why I’m here.
Sap aside, the practical side of life isn’t so bad, either. Yesterday I had what seemed to me to be a great interview at truly inspirational start-up company. I’ll keep the details under wraps until I find out about the job, but it’s safe to say that I am totally pumped about even the slightest glimmer of hope that I could work with these guys. I really hope it happens.
The bad news so far: I lost my favorite (and only) hat at Weekend in our rush to get to Berghain. I get very sentimental about my possessions and still feel like the hat might be sad I didn’t come looking for it. 😦
On the horizon: we are waking up early on Sunday morning to see Prosumer, Omar S, Soundstream, and Steffi in Pbar, and Boris in Berghain. Margaret Dygas is playing, too, that night, but it’s from midnight to 5am Sunday morning, so I don’t think we’ll make it. Out of this bunch I think I’m most excited to see Soundstream. I’ve enver heard a DJ set by him before, but his productions are out of this world.